| Trimming
the tail is accomplished using Thinning Shears as described
and illustrated with photos below.
Don't
let this task daunt you, it isn't
that hard, just do a little at a time, over a period of several days, until
you have the effect you desire. The Breed Standard reads that the
tail should just reach the dogs hocks, and though some dogs will
have a slightly longer tail, your goal is to trim the tail to that length
as closely as possible, and still not have the tail look noticeably sculptured.
The Goldens' tail has a rounder, fuller look when groomed, and the triangular
wedge seen on an Irish Setter with a "break" at the base of the tail, is
NOT the look desired. The area at the base of the tail is customarily
not groomed to separate the tail from the feathering on the butt, as is
done with the Setters in particular for the show ring, although on a heavily
feathered dog, some shortening of the length can be done to keep the dog
cleaner.
|
 Brush
the tail thoroughly, making sure all traces of tangles or matts are
removed. Hold the tail down to the hock and place your thumb at the
point where the end of the tail meets the hock to mark the length you will
trim the tail to match. Note: in the photo, an imaginary line drawn
from my thumb will just meet the top of the dogs hock.
This
will be the final length of the tail.
Using the
thinning shears, start trimming just past that point, giving yourself some
leeway, especially if you are a beginner.
 Lift
the tail and begin thinning, rounding the length of the tail feathering
slightly as you go toward the base. The dog in the illustration had
his tail trimmed not that many weeks prior to the photo, so you need to
look closely to see that I am trimming about 1" of feathering off.
On the majority of dogs, especially if having never had their tails trimmed
before, you will have quite a ragged edge of sometimes quite lengthy feathering,
often much longer at the tip, and also very long at the point in this photo
that my thinning shear is just beginning to come to. I make the initial
cut of length this way, then come back, moving side to side across the
tail breadth, making light and fleeting cuts to blend up the sides of the
tail, so blunt cuts are not glaring at you. More extreme length of the
feathering at the tails' base, should be trimmed a little also, this particular
dog does not have an abundance of tail feathering or coat at this time.
The final
two photos below, show the finished tail. I also do some rounding and blending
very carefully at the very tip of the tail, so that when the tail is hanging
naturally down, it doesn't look like someone cut it straight off with a
blunt knife.
 
|
SHOULDERS ETC.
 The
thinning shears are also used, inserting the blade underneath the coat
and "into" or "with" the direction of coat growth as in the red lines
shown on the photo. A small amount of trimming is done under
the ear on the neck area and under the dogs chin where the two red lines
are above.
Following
the line of the shoulder, if a heavy "shelf" exists as shown in photo, careful
thinning of undercoat in the direction shown by the arrows, and
combing out, will blend the coat in and reduce the heavy or "over-loaded"
look to shoulders and neck. Groom over a period of several days
and "Stop,
look, assess" as we did when doing the ears.
On some
dogs, similar thinning at the base of neck at the withers is also necessary.
Note: topcoat is NOT removed
in any of these area's, we are just thinning undercoat to remove some bulk.
Over zealous grooming in these areas,
whether done with thinning shears, or a stripping knife will not preserve
the natural look of the dog, nor will it enhance the dog or cover up lessor
qualities. The dog should not have an "hourglass" look when
looking straight at the front when done grooming. |
|
GROOMING YOUR GOLDEN ~ THE TAIL & SHOULDERS
